Complete Guide for a Climbing Trip in the Verdon Gorges
“A guide to planning your climbing trip in the Verdon Gorges, one of the world’s premier climbing destinations.”
The Verdon Gorges, often dubbed the “Yosemite of Europe,” is one of the most iconic climbing destinations in the world. With its towering limestone cliffs rising up to 400 meters above the turquoise waters of the Verdon River, this site attracts climbers from all over the globe to tackle its legendary routes. Since the 1970s, Verdon has made its mark on the history of sport climbing with its technical multi-pitch routes, demanding equipment, and psychological challenge. Whether you’re an enthusiast of vertical adventures or an experienced climber looking to push your limits, Verdon offers a unique and breathtaking playground.
Patrick Edlinger, an iconic figure of free climbing and a great explorer of the Verdon Gorges, once said:
“Climbing in Verdon is more than just a sport; it’s a return to nature and to oneself. Every hold, every movement is part of a dance with the rock.”
A comment from UKClimbing on the Verdon Gorges:
“Climbing in Verdon is like climbing in a dream. The cliffs seem to stretch endlessly, and each ascent offers spectacular views that are as captivating as the technical skill required to conquer the wall.”
Simon Montmory, a climbing guide in the Verdon, often says:
“Climbing in the Verdon Gorges is about immersing yourself in one of Europe’s last great wild spaces. Everything here is grand: the cliffs, the landscapes, and the challenges to overcome.”
In this guide, we offer everything you need to know to plan a successful climbing trip in the Verdon Gorges: information on the climbing sectors, the history of climbing in the region, the best times to climb, and practical tips to make the most of your experience. We will also introduce you to Aiguines, located in the heart of this exceptional natural setting, and explain why it is the perfect place to combine comfort, relaxation, and quick access to the best climbing spots in the region.
Introduction: The Verdon Gorges, a World Wonder for Climbers
The Verdon Gorges, often referred to as the “Grand Canyon of Europe,” is one of the most renowned climbing destinations in the world. With its towering limestone cliffs overlooking the turquoise Verdon River, this natural site attracts climbers from all corners of the globe. Known for its breathtaking routes, the Gorges offer a wide variety of climbing experiences for all levels, from simple sport routes to particularly technical multi-pitch climbs.
Since the late 1960s, pioneering climbers like François Guillot have explored these walls, turning them into a unique climbing site on par with legends like Yosemite. With over 1,500 routes, some reaching heights of over 400 meters, the Verdon is a true playground for climbing enthusiasts, especially its flagship sector, L’Escalès, which epitomizes the very essence of climbing in the Gorges. As seen in the reference magazine for international climbers: UK Climbing
This internationally renowned site is consistently ranked among the best climbing spots by platforms such as Mountain Project, Outdoor Research, and UKClimbing. The diversity of its routes, combined with the quality of its rock, makes the Verdon Gorges a legendary place, where adrenaline and stunning landscapes merge( Mountain ProjectOutdoor Research).
Climbing in the Verdon Gorges is not only about pushing physical limits but also immersing yourself in a unique natural setting, at the heart of Provence. Whether you are an experienced climber looking for challenges or a beginner ready to explore multi-pitch routes, Verdon promises an exceptional adventure.
The Verdon Gorges: The Yosemite of Europe
The Verdon Gorges are often compared to Yosemite in California, not only for their global fame in the climbing world but also for their potential when it comes to multi-pitch routes. Just like Yosemite, Verdon is a sanctuary for climbers, offering spectacular limestone walls that rival the massive granite faces of Yosemite Valley. The comparison between these two sites stems from their diverse range of routes, accessibility for climbers of various skill levels, and their iconic status in the history of climbing.
Verdon provides a varied climbing experience, from well-equipped sport routes to multi-pitch climbs that stretch for hundreds of meters, much like Yosemite. Classics such as La Demande (6a, 380m) or Pichenibule (7a+, 300m) are typical examples of the big climbs sought after by climbers in Verdon. These routes, similar to Yosemite’s big walls, require not only advanced technical skills but also the ability to manage stress and exposure, with sustained pitches and sometimes precarious sections.
Both sites also share a climbing culture deeply rooted in history. Yosemite witnessed the rise of “big wall” climbing with legends like Royal Robbins and Yvon Chouinard, while Verdon became the stage for the feats of Patrick Edlinger, who popularized free solo climbing in the 1980s. This legacy has earned Verdon the title of the Yosemite of Europe, with a similar prestige and mythical aura that draws climbers from all over the world.
Whether for the sheer scale of the cliffs, the variety of climbing styles, or the wild beauty of the surroundings, the Verdon Gorges offer a climbing experience comparable to that of Yosemite, reinforcing their reputation as one of the world’s top destinations for multi-pitch enthusiasts.
The History of Climbing in the Verdon Gorges
Climbing in the Verdon Gorges truly began to flourish in the late 1960s and early 1970s. During this period, climbing pioneers such as François Guillot and Claude Cassin began exploring the canyon’s impressive limestone walls. Using innovative techniques for the time, such as rappelling into the void, they established the first multi-pitch routes on cliffs that sometimes rise over 300 meters.
In the 1970s, Verdon became one of the epicenters of European climbing, thanks to the introduction of bolts (spits), which provided more secure protection on the routes. This practice revolutionized sport climbing and established Verdon as a cradle of the discipline, enabling the opening of highly technical and exposed routes.
The legend of climbing in the Verdon Gorges is inseparable from Patrick Edlinger, a symbolic figure of free climbing. In the late 1970s and early 1980s, Edlinger revolutionized the sport with impressive solo ascents, often completed without protection. He played a key role in popularizing climbing through films such as La Vie au Bout des Doigts and Opéra Vertical, which captured the imagination of many climbers by showcasing the beauty and difficulty of Verdon’s cliffs (Gripped Magazine).
The international impact of Edlinger’s achievements and those of other climbers from that era turned the Verdon Gorges into a pilgrimage site for climbing enthusiasts worldwide. The legendary routes opened in the 70s and 80s, such as La Demande, remain must-do classics to this day(UK Climbing).
Thus, the history of climbing in the Verdon Gorges is not only linked to the technical prowess of climbers but also to the evolution of equipment and mindsets, which have made this region a globally recognized climbing site.
Climbing Sectors and Iconic Routes
The Verdon Gorges offer a true playground for climbers, with more than 1,500 routes spread across a wide range of sectors. This site attracts climbers of all levels, eager to test their skills on grand-scale routes or tackle technical challenges on dizzying cliffs.
Historic Climbing Sectors of Verdon
The L’Escalès sector is undoubtedly one of the most iconic areas of Verdon. With cliffs that reach over 400 meters in height, it is home to some of the largest and most famous routes in the canyon. Among them, La Demande (6a, 380m) is an absolute classic. Opened in the 1960s, this route offers long and sustained climbing with chimneys and cracks, making it one of the most sought-after multi-pitch routes by climbers. Pichenibule (7a+, 300m), on the other hand, is known for its demanding technical sections and airy passages. This sector is a true test for experienced climbers looking to challenge themselves on one of Europe’s great classics.
Fenrir is another essential sector in Verdon, known for its technical and often very exposed routes. Among the most famous are Iron Dream (7b+), a particularly demanding route, and L’Ange en Décomposition (7a+), one of the most technical and impressive climbs in this area. This sector caters to climbers seeking challenges that combine technicality, exposure, and sheer verticality.
Among the most formidable sectors in Verdon, Les Spécialistes holds a special place, with its famed route of the same name, rated at 8b+. Opened in the 1980s, this route remains one of the most difficult in the area and is often considered a rite of passage for climbers looking to push their physical and mental limits. With extremely technical passages, it is reserved for the most seasoned climbers.
Other famous sectors include Luna Bong, known for its historic cracks and unique suspended ambiance, as well as Paroi Rouge with its intimidating overhangs. Climbers seeking more technical challenges will also find satisfaction in routes like Mescalito (7c+, 250m) and Kallistée (7b+, 250m), both offering sustained climbs in breathtaking configurations.
Modern Climbing Sectors in Verdon
In recent decades, new well-equipped routes have been opened to allow more climbers to experience the Verdon Gorges. Sectors such as Le Don de l’Aigle, Bas et Haut Galetas, and Moyen Eycharme offer modern routes accessible from 5c. These sectors, less exposed than the historic ones, allow climbers to enjoy Verdon’s legendary climbing without the same level of psychological commitment required for older routes.
These new sectors, combining modern equipment with more accessible grades, have opened Verdon to a broader audience of climbers, without compromising the quality and intensity of the experience. Whether you’re a beginner
Practical Information for a Climbing Trip in the Verdon Gorges
Planning a climbing trip to the Verdon Gorges requires a bit of preparation to fully enjoy this world-renowned site, known for its rock quality and the diversity of its routes. Here is a complete guide to the essential information you need before tackling the cliffs of Verdon.
THE VERDON GORGES: THE KINGDOM OF LIMESTONE AND SLABS
These mostly vertical or overhanging routes are set on limestone of exceptional quality. The limestone in Verdon is renowned for its great adhesion, offering a wide variety of holds and climbing styles, making it a paradise for climbers seeking technical challenges.
Types of Holds and Grips
The Verdon limestone features several types of holds, characteristic of the morphology of the walls:
- Water pockets: Very typical of limestone cliffs, these holds are formed by water erosion on the rock. They offer technical micro-grips, requiring excellent balance control and precise foot placements.
- Crimps: These small, fine edges demand a lot of finger strength and precision, particularly on medium to high-difficulty routes. Crimps can be quite challenging, especially in vertical sections.
- Cracks and corners: In some routes, especially older ones, cracks and corners allow for opposition or jamming techniques, often over multiple pitches.
- Slopers and tufa formations: Some areas offer more rounded holds or tufa formations sculpted by erosion, requiring good footwork and body positioning to maintain balance.
The varied holds of Verdon often demand technical climbing, where climbers must constantly adjust their positions and movements to progress. The routes can switch between slab climbing, requiring finesse and precision, and more athletic sections in overhangs or roofs, where strength becomes essential.
IDEAL CLIMBING SEASON IN THE VERDON GORGES
The Verdon Gorges enjoy a Mediterranean climate, making climbing possible almost year-round. However, the best times to climb are between April and October, when temperatures are pleasant and the cliffs are well-exposed. During the peak summer months, from June to August, the heat can be intense, especially on south-facing sectors. It’s advisable to choose shaded cliffs and start climbing early in the morning. In spring and autumn, cooler temperatures provide optimal conditions to enjoy the multi-pitch routes without suffering from the heat.
A CAR IS ESSENTIAL
A car is almost indispensable for getting around the Verdon Gorges and accessing the various climbing sectors. The D71 and D952 roads run along the gorges and provide access to the main starting points for climbing routes. While La Palud-sur-Verdon and Aiguines are villages located in the heart of the gorges, offering some services, it is recommended to have a vehicle to explore the many sectors scattered along the canyon and to reach the more remote cliffs.
Parking is available near the main sectors, but can be limited during the high season. It’s important to respect the parking areas to avoid obstructing traffic. Access to the cliffs may sometimes require a 10 to 40-minute approach walk, though some sectors are very close to the main roads, especially on the right bank.
Essential Gear for Multi-Pitch Routes
The multi-pitch routes in Verdon require specific equipment to ensure both safety and comfort. Here is a list of the minimum recommended gear:
- Double ropes (minimum 2x50m) for rappelling and long pitches.
- Quickdraws (12 to 20, depending on the length of the routes).
- Helmet, essential for protection against falling rocks.
- Belay device and prusik for rappelling.
- Sling and locking carabiners for securing at anchors.
- Approach shoes for accessing the walls, often via steep or rugged paths.
It’s important to equip yourself according to the specific requirements of the chosen routes, as some may require cams or nuts to protect sparsely bolted sections, particularly in historical routes.
CHARACTERISTICS OF ROUTES IN THE VERDON GORGES
The Verdon Gorges are world-famous for their impressive multi-pitch routes, with heights ranging from 150 to 450 meters and climbs often consisting of between 5 and 12 pitches. This unique vertical playground is a must for fans of technical multi-pitch climbing, offering both a physical and psychological experience.
One of the unique features of Verdon is that most routes are accessed from the top, which is relatively rare in the climbing world. Climbers typically begin with a rappel into the void before starting their ascent. This approach, adding a dizzying dimension right from the start, requires a good command of rappelling techniques. The rappels in Verdon can be daunting, with descents of over 100 meters into open space, particularly on walls like L’Escalès.
The routes in the Verdon Gorges are known for their commitment, often featuring a significant distance between anchor points. Depending on the time of their original bolting or re-bolting, some routes have spaced-out protection, which can increase the psychological pressure on climbers. Historic routes equipped in the 1970s and 1980s, like La Demande or Pichenibule, sometimes retain wider spacing between bolts, requiring optimal management of exposure. More modern routes are generally better equipped, with closer bolts, but some classics still retain that level of commitment that has earned the site its reputation.
WEATHER CONDITIONS IN THE VERDON GORGES
Before heading out to climb, it is essential to check the weather conditions. Although the Verdon enjoys a mostly dry climate, it can be subject to thunderstorms in the summer, especially in the afternoons. Temperatures can also vary depending on altitude and the exposure of the cliffs. It is recommended to consult local forecasts or seek advice from local shops or guides, who provide real-time information on weather and route conditions.
BOTH SIDES OF THE VERDON GORGES ARE CLIMBABLE
The Verdon Gorges are divided into two main sides, both of which are suitable for climbing. The right bank (or south side) is often more accessible, with sectors like L’Escalès, while the left bank offers sectors such as Les Dalles Grises and Les Cavaliers. Both sides are served by roads that run along the gorges, making it easy to reach the various climbing sectors.
- Right bank (south side): Accessible via the D71 road, this side is home to some of the most famous sectors like L’Escalès and Le Duc. The cliffs here are more exposed to the sun, making it a preferred choice in autumn and spring.
- Left bank: The D952 road provides access to several sectors, often less crowded, offering a calmer and more shaded atmosphere in summer. Sectors like Le Galetas and Le Verdon Rive Gauche offer varied climbing experiences, perfect for climbers looking for new challenges.
Guidebooks and Routes
To plan your climbs, several detailed guidebooks are available that cover the routes in the Verdon Gorges. These guidebooks, available in specialized shops in La Palud-sur-Verdon, provide information on routes, grades, and the length of each climb. The guidebook “Verdon 50 ans, 500 voies” is one of the most comprehensive, covering the majority of Verdon’s sectors. It is essential to consult these guidebooks before committing to a route, as they provide valuable information on bolting, anchors, and access points.
Rescue and Mobile Network Coverage
While some areas of the Verdon have mobile network coverage, many climbing sectors may be out of range. It is therefore recommended to inform someone of your itinerary or to climb in a group for added safety. In case of emergency, the local rescue services are well-trained to operate in difficult terrain, but response times can be long in more remote areas.
Respecting the Environment: Climbing in a Protected Area
The Verdon Gorges are located within the heart of the Verdon Regional Natural Park, a protected area known for its exceptional biodiversity and rich landscapes. All the cliffs you climb on are situated within this natural park, which imposes a strict adherence to environmental rules to preserve this unique ecosystem.
It is crucial to minimize your impact on the local flora and fauna by following the Leave No Trace principles. This includes not leaving any waste, avoiding damage to vegetation, and respecting access restrictions. Certain areas may be temporarily closed to protect bird nesting, such as the griffon vultures that find refuge in the Verdon cliffs. Before your trip, it’s important to check for seasonal restrictions or temporary closures of routes to avoid disturbing these protected species (Provence Climbing Guide).
Climbing in Verdon means not only enjoying a breathtaking natural setting but also adopting a respectful and responsible approach to this preserved environment.
Climbing Photo Album of the Verdon Gorges
To immerse yourself even further in the unique world of the Verdon Gorges, discover a small photo album that captures the grandeur of this exceptional site. The images of the towering limestone cliffs, the breathtaking views over the turquoise waters of Lake Sainte-Croix, and unforgettable climbing moments testify to the beauty and intensity of the climbing experience in this majestic natural setting.
This album highlights the stunning landscapes of the Verdon Regional Natural Park, along with photos of ascents made by passionate climbers. These shots showcase the physical and mental commitment required by the multi-pitch routes of Verdon, while also emphasizing the respect needed for this protected natural environment. Whether at the foot of the cliffs, mid-rappel, or at the end of an ascent, each moment captured tells the story of a deep connection between humans and nature.
Feel free to explore these photos for inspiration as you prepare for your next climbing adventure at one of the most beautiful climbing sites in the world.
Why Choose Aiguines and Villa Overdon for a Climbing Stay
A Strategic Location: Aiguines, the Gateway to the Verdon Gorges
Aiguines is a picturesque village known as the gateway to the Verdon Gorges due to its proximity to both climbing sides of the canyon. The village is located at the crossroads of the roads leading to the main sectors on the right and left banks, allowing easy access to climbing areas such as L’Escalès and Les Cavaliers without wasting time on long drives. This positioning makes it an ideal base for exploring the many sectors of Verdon, whether you’re tackling the dizzying multi-pitch routes or the shorter, more technical ones.
Though small, Aiguines offers several local shops, including grocery stores, bakeries, and artisan boutiques. The village is convenient for quickly stocking up before heading out to conquer the cliffs. Moreover, with its tranquil atmosphere and Provençal streets, it’s a perfect place to relax when you’re not climbing, offering a balance between sport and rest.
The proximity to Lake Sainte-Croix also allows you to enjoy other activities outside of climbing. After your ascents, you can easily access the lake’s beaches for a relaxing swim or try water sports such as kayaking or paddleboarding, providing a welcome break after your efforts on the cliffs. The natural surroundings of the villa encourage alternating between intense sports and relaxation.
The Choice of Villa Overdon
After an intense day climbing the limestone walls of the Gorges, Villa Overdon offers a relaxing and comfortable setting to recharge. Nestled on the heights of Aiguines, the villa boasts a breathtaking view of Lake Sainte-Croix. This panoramic view provides a sense of relaxation and disconnect after a day of exertion, which you can enjoy from the terrace or private garden. In the evening, you can watch the sunset over the lake, a perfect moment of calm to reflect on your climbing day and plan your next ascents.
Villa Overdon combines comfort, convenience, and proximity to the climbing sectors, while offering an exceptional setting to unwind after your climbing days. Its location in Aiguines allows quick access to the cliffs on both sides of the Verdon, while offering a magnificent view and local amenities to make your stay easier. Whether you’re coming for multi-pitch routes or shorter climbs, this villa is the ideal choice for a memorable stay in the Verdon Gorges.
A Little Nod from the Owners of Villa Overdon, Climbers Themselves
The owners of Villa Overdon, Ludovic and Sylvie, are passionate climbers, particularly fond of multi-pitch routes. 25 years ago, they discovered climbing in the Verdon Gorges, an experience that marked a turning point in their climbing journey. Their first encounter with the great limestone walls of Verdon was a true revelation, igniting their passion for this demanding yet rewarding form of climbing.
It wasn’t until much later, in 2022, during a climbing course followed by a tourist stay, that they fell in love with the region. The beauty of the landscapes and the richness of the climbing sites were so striking that they decided to return to Verdon regularly, eventually wanting to own a vacation home there. This is how the idea of Villa Overdon was born, a project that came to fruition with a genuine love for this property. The exceptional location, with a stunning view of Lake Sainte-Croix, combined with easy access to numerous climbing sectors, made the villa an ideal place for climbing enthusiasts seeking to combine comfort with adventure.
