An Introduction to Multi-Pitch with Three Essential Routes
Sommaire de l'article
"Come explore the Gorges du Verdon, learn multi-pitch climbing, and let yourself be drawn by the call of the void."
The Gorges du Verdon, with their impressive cliffs and breathtaking panoramas, are a true paradise for climbers worldwide. These multi-pitch routes are ideal for beginning your Verdon climbing trip. To organize everything, consult our practical advice for your Verdon vacation.
In this article, I propose three multi-pitch routes perfect for easing into Verdon climbing. These itineraries, graded 5b/5c/6a, offer an excellent introduction to climbing in Verdon.
Easy Route Gorges du Verdon - Goodbye Zidane at Galetas
Located near the famous Sainte-Croix Lake, the Goodbye Zidane route in the Galetas sector is a true gem for those wanting to adapt to Verdon's cliffs. At grade 5c, it offers pleasant progression on a fairly compact wall.
The Essentials
- Very quick access
- Excellent full-out rappel above Verdon
- Beautiful traverses and slab pitches at the end
- Top-notch protection and equipment
Route Characteristics
- Altitude: 550 m / 650 m
- Route length: 140 m
- Pitches: 5
Access and Approach
Head to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, then continue toward the Gorges du Verdon. The small Galetas parking lot is well-marked on the right.
Descent
The route ends directly on the road, return to parking in less than 7 seconds.
Route Description:
- P1 (5b, 9pt): Straight up then right.
- P2 (6a then 5c+, 9pt): Right, a step, a 6a move.
- P3 (5c, 9pt): Climb straight then aim left.
- P4 (6a, 10pt): Left, impressive traverse.
- P5 (5c+/6a, 9pt): Climb easy section, vertical exit.
Easy Route Gorges du Verdon - Goat's Paw Arete at Col des Félines
The second route I recommend is the Goat's Paw Arete, located at Col des Félines. With a moderate grade of 5c/6a. Perfect for admiring the viewpoints of the Gorges du Verdon.
The Essentials
- Beautiful arete route with nice climbing
- Views of Sainte-Croix Lake throughout the route
- Easy descent via the gully
Route Characteristics
- Altitude: 675 m / 1050 m
- Route length: 150 m
- Pitches: 7
Access, Approach and Descent
From the Col des Félines parking area. Approach walk of 20 to 30 minutes. Descent via the west gully (recommended).
Route Description:
- P1 (4, 8g): Climb a spur.
- P2 (5b, 9g): Series of small slabs.
- P3 (5b, 7g): Traverse upward to the right.
- P4 (5a, 7g): Climb a chimney then dihedral.
- P5 (5b+, 7g): Climb a chimney.
- P6 (5b, 5g): Climb a slab.
- P7 (4c): Final step and arete.
Easy Route Gorges du Verdon - Chlorochose at the Escales Cliff
The third route I recommend is Chlorochose, located on the Escales cliff. With a grade of 5b/5c. After your climbing session, why not continue with a hike to the Plein Voir viewpoints or a swim in Sainte-Croix Lake?
The Essentials
- Historic sector full of character
- Start with a rappel to the squirrel garden
- Top-notch protection and equipment
Route Characteristics
- Altitude: 950m / 110 m
- Route length: 160 m
- Pitches: 7
Access, Approach and Descent
From the Maline or Carelle parking areas, access in about ten minutes. Descent via three rappels of approximately 30 meters each.
Route Description:
- P1 (4, 8g): Climb a spur.
- P2 (5b, 9g): Series of small slabs.
- P3 (5b, 7g): Traverse upward.
- P4 (5a, 7g): Climb a chimney then dihedral.
- P5 (5b+, 7g): Climb a chimney.
- P6 (5b, 5g): Climb a slab.
- P7 (4c): Final step and arete.
Charming house (6 pers., 3 bedrooms, ground floor, 110m² with spacious living area) with panoramic view of Lake Sainte-Croix. Quiet, 2 min walk from the village centre. Preserved nature & ideal base for outdoor activities and tourism.
